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Strong Wool Stories

BDes (Hons) Textile Collection, 2022

Strong wool possesses many attributes such as being natural, biodegradable, recyclable, breathable, odour and stain resistant, durable and fire retardant. It is also a renewable resource which is readily available within Aotearoa. However, it is now financially unviable for many farms to shear sheep for profit due to competition from synthetic fibres. This leaves a surplus of strong wool sitting unused. This project focuses on revitalising the industry through textile based craftsmanship, promoting a holistic approach which considers the environment, materials, people and processes to bring the fibre from farm to fabric.

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I collaborated with local farmers who provided me with English Leicester fleeces, known for their curly lustre and measuring at 40 micron. I worked with the fleeces from the start of their journey at shearing day. I sorted and scoured them before carding, spinning and plying them into yarn. I then created small batches of natural dyes, including indigo, madder and myrobalan to colour the yarn before setting up a 24 shaft AVL loom alongside a 8 shaft dobby loom and weaving the rugs. The textiles were finished by running them through a felting loom to create a dense cloth and tighten loose fibres. The final collection showcases strong wool while taking advantage of its many properties to create beautiful and functional rugs.

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